Backpacking through Assam and Meghalaya is an experience that engages all the senses, but nothing captures the essence of these places like their street food. Among the misty hills and vibrant streets, Shillong’s food scene is a treasure trove of homemade flavors, served fresh and hot at the roadside stalls. While Assam offers its share of culinary delights, the bustling streets of Meghalaya’s capital mesmerized me. With every bite, I felt like I was savoring a piece of the region’s culture, though not all flavors were for me.
The magic of Shillong’s street food
Shillong’s street food stalls are a true spectacle. Everywhere you go, you find hardworking vendors standing for hours on end, preparing and serving meals with unmatched dedication. What’s more remarkable is how affordable the food is. In a world where inflation keeps driving prices up, it feels like time has paused in Meghalaya. A filling meal here costs between 20 to 80 rupees, a luxury in today’s world. The aroma of sizzling oil, steaming dumplings, and freshly cooked noodles fills the air, making it impossible to resist stopping for a bite.
One of the best places to experience Shillong’s food culture is Police Bazaar. This lively area, teeming with tourists and locals alike, is home to numerous food stalls that whip up everything from momos and chow mein to more traditional Khasi dishes like Jadoh and Dohkhlieh. I found it fascinating how food was cooked right in front of me—fresh, hot, and served with a smile, regardless of the language barriers. Even if the vendors didn’t speak Hindi or English, their gestures and bright expressions were enough to communicate warmth and hospitality.
The hits and misses of Meghalayan cuisine
While I love trying new dishes, my taste buds often play it safe. Jadoh, a beloved Khasi dish often referred to as ‘Meghalaya’s biryani,’ didn’t quite match my expectations. It’s a rice dish cooked with pork or chicken and flavored with turmeric and indigenous spices. It had a distinct earthy taste that some might love, but it wasn’t for me.
Another famous dish, Dohkhlieh, a spicy pork salad with onions, chilies, and ginger, also didn’t suit my palate. It had a strong, raw texture that was a bit overwhelming for me. But I admire the simplicity of the ingredients and how these dishes reflect the Khasi people’s deep connection with their local produce.
With these experiments done, I decided to stick to my comfort zone. Egg rolls, chow mein, and momos became my go-to meals. The chow mein, stir-fried to perfection with just the right amount of vegetables and spices, was incredibly satisfying. Momos, the ultimate street food favorite, were delicious, stuffed with perfectly seasoned fillings and served with fiery chutneys that added an extra punch. The egg rolls, wrapped in soft parathas and loaded with fresh vegetables and a spicy sauce, were an absolute delight, especially on the go.
The simplicity of a street meal
There is something comforting about a hot meal prepared right before your eyes. In Shillong, the freshness of the ingredients is non-negotiable. Except for rice dishes that take longer to prepare, everything else is cooked on the spot. This freshness, combined with the efficiency of the vendors, makes eating on the street an experience in itself.
Despite my selective taste, I found immense joy in watching the street vendors work. Their energy, resilience, and skill in preparing food all day long in all kinds of weather are truly commendable. From early morning breakfasts to late-night snacks, they stand by their stalls, ready to serve locals and travelers alike. Their cheerful smiles, even after standing for hours, made every meal feel like a warm embrace.
The best breakfast on a chilly morning
In Shillong, mornings can be quite chilly, especially if you’re not used to the cool mountain air. There’s nothing better than starting the day with a steaming cup of chai and a plate of warm food. While many travelers opt for elaborate breakfasts at cafes, I found street-side vendors serving the most heartwarming options—boiled eggs, omelets, and piping hot tea. The simple combination of eggs and chai might not sound like much, but on a crisp morning, it is pure bliss.
One of my fondest memories from Shillong was standing near a tea stall, warming my hands around a hot cup, watching the city wake up. The steam rising from the cup, the chatter of early risers, and the smell of freshly cooked eggs—it was a moment of pure contentment.
The lessons street food taught me
This journey through Shillong’s street food scene was not just about tasting new flavors; it was about understanding food in a different way. I learned that not every dish has to be my favorite for me to appreciate its significance. The food we eat is deeply tied to our identity and traditions, and stepping out of my comfort zone made me see how diverse and beautiful food culture can be.
It also made me grateful for the familiar dishes I often take for granted. Before this trip, I never thought I would ever get tired of eating Maggie. But after surviving on it in various forms—plain, in curries, soupy, and even with unfamiliar seasonings—I realized that sometimes your comfort food can become your discomfort food.
Traveling, and especially eating in a new place, challenges not just your taste buds but your perspective on food itself. You may not always love what you try, but after all, food is not just about taste—it’s about the stories, people, and places that make it special.
Love,
Shweta